Chapter #1

Secrets and struggles seen from on high

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Civitella in Val di Chiana, Rocca
Civitella in Val di Chiana, Rocca

I haven’t moved for about 1,400 years, possibly even longer. Landslides? Yes, there have been a few, and plenty of general confusion. I’ve seen sisters of mine crumble, while others have fallen; others have been lost, left damaged. I saw them pick themselves up and “start a new life”—sure, in our own way—some in houses. One even ended up in the octagon of a well, in the very center of the square. The well is very beautiful—so sometimes I envied her—but at the end of the day, you know what? From where I sit, the view is better. I am a castle stone, and not just any stone: I’m the keystone at the center of the arch that overlooks my town and the surrounding valley, on top of a mountain covered by a forest, halfway between the val d’Ambra and the val di Chiana. I’m a stone in the Rocca di Civitella in the Val di Chiana. Perhaps you wouldn’t guess it, but from up here I’ve seen quite a lot…

Chapter #2

Witnessing a lot…and never forgetting any of it

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Civitella in Val di Chiana sala memoria
Civitella in Val di Chiana
Civitella in Val di Chiana
Civitella in Val di Chiana

I hear people talking as they pass by: “one of the best examples of a reticulum in a fortified city of under Lombard control…” Follow-up comments come quickly: "a wonderful structure from between the sixth and seventh centuries". I smile secretly. If only it had always been like this around here! Sometimes, it seems as though history has been relentless in its attacks on this small village southwest of Arezzo, leaving deep wounds even on the town walls themselves. We could never forget the battle of Pieve al Toppo–even Dante spoke about it in the thirteenth canto of Inferno! Even worse, though, was just over 70 years ago, when, during World War II, our streets were the scene of a terrible Nazi massacre: 173 people’s lives were lost. We certainly haven’t forgotten that history and to ensure it never happens again, the City, in collaboration with the “Civitella Ricorda” association, put together a “Memory Room,” or “Sala di Memoria”, in Civitella’s Via Martiri. In this room, you’ll find remains and objects associated with the victims; photographs of the town before and after the destruction; eyewitness accounts; books; videos and many other remnants of wartime.

Chapter #3

A new life for the town

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civitella_in_val_di_chiana_madonna_
Civitella in Val di Chiana scultura
Civitella in Val di Chiana galleria

But this small community, enclosed by the tight embrace of my sisters made of terracotta, has never allowed outside forces to conquer it completely. Today Civitella, drawing on its rich artistic heritage, from the Cisterna to Palazzo Pretorio, up to the “Madonna and Child” (1522) produced by the Della Robbia school, has found its true calling: to serve as an open-air museum. It has become a picturesque setting, perfect for contemporary artists’ use. Contemporary art comes here in waves, through the sculpture exhibition “(S)oggetivamente” and the Premio Nazionale di Pittura “Città di Civitella” (the City of Civitella National Painting Prize). Now, all of the stones in the town are museums, and every corner is an exhibition space. These contemporary art festivals allow visitors to experience a unique blend: the evocative power of contemporary art, combined with the traditional settings of squares, town walls, medieval streets and more. With everything that I’ve experienced and seen here, I think that I can rightfully say that this period is the most beautiful incarnation of our Civitella that we’ve seen yet....